Some of my friends consider Fortune Centre one of those “out of the norm” malls, it has so many little independent eateries that somehow make the building more interesting.
You will find vegetarian eateries, Japanese food spots, dessert shops (yes, Yat Ka Yan), and cafes, while I also enjoy checking out some of the more hidden corridors.
Now, add Onigiri Gon おにぎり 権 to that list. (I previously reviewed the fish soup next door.)
The handmade onigiri shop is located on the first floor, and it feels like the kind of small Japanese counter you might chance upon near a train station in Japan.
Onigiri, for the unfamiliar, are Japanese rice balls usually shaped by hand and wrapped with nori seaweed.
They can be filled with ingredients such as salmon, ume, kombu, tuna mayo, mentaiko, or more substantial meat and seafood toppings.
Most of us probably know onigiri from Japanese convenience stores, where they are cold, neatly wrapped in plastic, and very useful when you need a quick bite.
Onigiri Gon is run by Fukuoka-born Chef Takamasa Suzuki, who was previously with the Shunsui Group.
The onigiri here are made fresh to order, using warm rice that is shaped only after you pick your fillings.
According to its signage, it uses selected Niigata Koshihikari rice, a blend of three natural salts, and aromatic premium nori from Japan.
The onigiri are served with homemade miso soup and pickles.
There are onigiri from the $4.90 tier such as Ume, Konbu, Okaka, Nori Tsukudani and Karashi Takana.
The $5.90 tier includes Sake, Sake Mayo, Mentaiko, Mentaiko Mayo, Tuna Mayo, Niku Soboro, Buta Kimchi and Spicy Tori Kara.
If that is too much to decide on, the set meals are probably the easiest way to order, with Combo 1 ($13.90) coming with two onigiri, miso soup and pickles, while Combo 2 ($18.80) comes with three onigiri, miso soup and pickles.
I went for Combo 2, and my picks were Mentaiko, Spicy Tori Kara and Ebi Tempura, with Tonjiru and mixed tsukemono.
The rice was the first thing that stood out for me. Warm, fluffy and lightly seasoned, it had a comforting quality that you simply do not get from cold minimart onigiri.
I also thought the rice-to-filling proportion was quite good. Some onigiri can feel like mostly rice with a tiny surprise hidden somewhere in the centre.
Here, the toppings were visible and generous enough, so each bite had something going on.
That said, a piece or two did not hold together as well, and some rice started dropping towards the end. It was not a major issue, but it did get a little messy.
The Mentaiko was salty, lightly spicy and briny enough to wake up the rice without taking over the whole thing. It was one of the safer choices, but safe in a good way.
Of the three, I liked the Spicy Tori Karaage most because it brought more oomph. The spicy fried chicken filling gave the rice a stronger savoury kick, and this helped break up the meal better.
If you are ordering two or three pieces, I would recommend picking at least one spicy or punchier filling, otherwise the meal may start to feel a little too ‘mild’ towards the end.
Compared to a regular miso soup, the Tonjiru had a generous amount of sliced pork and vegetables, making it warmer, fuller and more comforting.
The mixed tsukemono helped too, adding crunch and a refreshing lift between bites.
I would say Onigiri Gon is worth supporting, especially if you like small food places that focus on one thing.
Just come with a bit of patience, as the queue will possibly get quite long when word gets around.
Onigiri Gon
Fortune Centre #01-18, 190 Middle Road, Singapore 188979
Opening Hours: 11:30am – 4pm (Tues – Sat), Closed Sun, Mon
Other Related Entries
SUKIYA (JEM)
Tamoya Udon & Tempura (Suntec City)
Yakiniku Gyubei (100AM Mall)
Hvala (Raffles Specialist Centre)
Katsu-an Singapore (Suntec City)
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