Osteria Mozza has reopened at ION Orchard, giving Nancy Silverton’s Italian restaurant yet another Singapore home after Marina Bay Sands and Hilton Singapore Orchard.
My friend happens to be quite a fan, so over the years we have somehow eaten through all the different Singapore renditions.
That also means a new Osteria Mozza comes with a little ‘baggage’ of comparison, especially when something as familiar as the pizza has changed quite noticeably.
The new restaurant is located on Level 3 of ION Orchard, and the space feels polished without becoming overly formal or stuffy.
Decor-wise, it has dark wood, caramel-toned banquettes, green leather bar stools, a long marble-topped bar and large floral arrangements breaking up the dining room.
Despite being inside one of Orchard Road’s busiest malls, it does not really feel like a typical mall restaurant once you are seated, and there is still enough of that destination-dining or romantic feel.
Food-wise, much of what people associate with Osteria Mozza remains, including burrata and mozzarella, house-made pastas and larger mains, though the biggest change this time would probably be the pizza.
Instead of the puffier wood-fired pizzas from its previous Singapore incarnation, Osteria Mozza now serves Pizza alla Pala, a Roman-style pizza that comes long and flat on a wooden paddle, with a lighter and crispier texture.
The Pizza alla Pala selection is fairly compact, with Margherita ($28), Spicy Tomato ($24), Aglio e Olio ($23), Funghi Misti ($29), Fennel Sausage ($32) and BLT ($32).
We went for the Salame ($30, top-up $3 for hot honey), topped with tomato, mozzarella and Fresno chillies, and I thought what worked best was how light it felt.
It was easy to share, and even after a few slices, you still had enough appetite left for pasta and the other dishes.
That said, I did miss some of the character from the older wood-fired pizzas. Without the wood-fired oven, there is naturally less of that distinctive smokiness, which for me used to be part of the appeal.
Pasta options include Squid Ink Casarecce ($28), Orecchiette ($26), Mafaldine Ragù Bolognese ($26), Rigatoni alla Vodka ($22) and Fonduta Ravioli ($26).
We ordered the Campanelle ($24) with prawn, tomatoes, chilli and garlic, and this was one of the dishes I enjoyed more than expected.
The ruffled pasta shape worked especially well with the sauce, picking up the tomato and garlic in between the folds, while the prawns made the dish feel flavourful without becoming too heavy (or jelak).
We also had the Burrata & Italian Chili Crunch ($22), topped with crispy garlic, chilli and dried shrimp, which prompted my friend to describe it as “lao gan ma over burrata”.
It sounds a little irreverent, but the comparison actually makes sense once you taste it, with the cool and creamy burrata taking on all that chilli, garlic, and crunch.
There are also Piadina Sandwiches available during the day, while larger mains include Grilled Whole Sea Bream ($58), Chicken Scarpariello ($30), Pork Chop Milanese ($45), Braised Lamb Shanks ($48), Steak Frites ($48) and Wagyu Tagliata ($80).
I do think the ION Orchard move makes Osteria Mozza feel less like somewhere you save for a special occasion, and more like somewhere you might actually drop by for lunch, pasta or a pizza after shopping. Not bad.
Osteria Mozza Singapore
ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, #03-14B/15B, Singapore 238801
Opening Hours: 11:30am – 10pm (Mon – Sun)
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