Sham Shui Po 深水埗 must be one of the most authentic and traditional districts in Hong Kong for foodies to visit.
Walk a few streets and you will notice how many small eateries have been doing the same thing for decades, often with the same family recipes.
One moment I was passing a queue for handmade bamboo noodles, the next I was drawn in by the smell of rice rolls steaming or tofu fa being prepared fresh.
This guide is inspired by a recent initiative called Taste Hong Kong 香港好味, created by the Hong Kong Tourism Board in partnership with the Chinese Culinary Institute.
More than 50 Master Chefs were invited to share their personal favourite places to eat, many of which sit right here in Sham Shui Po.
I have combined these expert recommendations with several other long-standing and well-loved spots in the neighbourhood.
Whether you are after a quick bite at a street stall or a dai pai dong meal, check out this Sham Shui Po must-eat list:
Oi Man Sang 愛文生
Shop B-C, G/F, 1 Shek Kip Mei Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon
Opening Hours: 4:30pm – 11pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Oi Man Sang 愛文生
Ultimate ‘Wok Hei’ At This Legendary 1950s Dai Pai Dong
Oi Man Sang stands as one of the last remaining dai pai dongs in Hong Kong, and its history stretches back to 1956.
Even as you sit down at a comfortable space in the eatery, I would recommend getting a view of the open-air kitchen because you get to see dishes being fried over massive flames.
Look out for the owner in bright orange tee and shorts, handling dramatic bursts of fire as dishes come together at speed.
The menu focuses on classic Cantonese stir-fry dishes that pair well with a cold drink. The signature Stir-Fried Potatoes with Beef is a must-order. The beef stays tender, while the potatoes soak up the peppery sauce without turning soft.
Another highlight is the Deep-Fried Squid with Salt and Pepper, which arrives crisp and light, without the heavy oiliness found at many similar places. Or get the ‘Bombay Duck’.
Seafood lovers should also consider the Steamed King Razor Clams with Garlic, which deliver a rich, garlicky flavour that works best when shared.
Every dish arrives piping hot, often within minutes of ordering, showing the efficiency of a kitchen that has been doing this for decades.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Stir-fried Potatoes with Beef, Deep-fried Squid with Salt and Pepper, Salt and Pepper Bombay Duck, Steamed King Razor Clams with Garlic, Stir-fried Clams in Black Bean Sauce and more.
Extra tip:
Arrive before 6pm to avoid a long wait, as the restaurant does not take reservations and fills up quickly with locals after work.
Lau Sum Kee Noodle 劉森記麵家
82 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong
Opening Hours: 12pm – 10pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Lau Sum Kee Noodle 劉森記麵家
Traditional Bamboo-Pressed Noodles with Savoury Umami Punch
Lau Sum Kee Noodle is a third-generation family business that has been a fixture in Sham Shui Po since 1956.
While most modern noodle shops rely on factory machines, this humble eatery remains one of the few places in Hong Kong that still produces “jook sing” noodles.
The process is fascinating and physically demanding, involving a chef sitting on a large bamboo pole to press the dough with his body weight.
I highly recommend the Shrimp Roe Lo Mein as the absolute star of the menu. The dry noodles arrive under a thick blanket of tiny, salt-cured shrimp eggs that provide an intense oceanic umami and a subtle crunch.
If you find the shrimp roe a bit too dry on its own, I suggest stirring in a spoonful of the clear broth to help the flavours coat the strands.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Shrimp Roe Lo Mein, Wonton Noodle Soup, Tossed Noodles with Braised Beef Brisket and Tendon, and the complimentary Pickled Radish (find them in the bottle with a red cap on your table).
Extra tip:
If the Fuk Wing Street branch is too crowded, their other shop is just a short walk away on Kweilin Street and often offers the same nostalgic experience with slightly different opening hours.
Kung Wo Beancurd Factory 公和荳品廠
G/F, 118 Pei Ho Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon
Opening Hours: 7am – 9pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Kung Wo Beancurd Factory 公和荳品廠
Taste The Silky Smooth Tofu at This Famous Tofu Institution
Kung Wo Beancurd Factory is a true icon of Sham Shui Po, having served its signature soy products since 1893.
The shop has managed to retain its nostalgic charm with its signature green tiled floor and retro wooden stools.
They still use traditional methods to grind their soybeans, resulting in a depth of flavour that is hard to find in mass-produced alternatives.
I enjoyed watching the staff work with practiced speed behind the open counter, pan-frying tofu and serving bowls of pudding to a constant stream of locals and tourists alike.
Start with the classic Tofu Pudding. It is served warm (or cold) and has a silky, almost ethereal texture that glides down the throat.
I suggest adding a sprinkle of the orange cane sugar found on the table to give it a subtle crunch and a hint of sweetness.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Tofu Pudding, Deep-Fried Tofu Puffs with Fish Paste, Pan-Fried Three Treasures, and Cold Soy Milk.
Extra tip:
I recommend checking out their retail section where they sell soy drinks, fermented bean curd and fresh soy blocks that are highly regarded by home cooks across the city.
Gold Garden Café 金園茶餐廳
G/F, 314 Castle Peak Road, Cheung Sha Wan, Kowloon
Opening Hours: 6:30am – 9pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Gold Garden Café 金園茶餐廳
Cha Chaan Teng with Crispy Egg Tarts and Nostalgic Comfort
Gold Garden Cafe is a quintessential neighbourhood cha chaan teng that has earned a loyal following for its commitment to traditional Hong Kong breakfast-style food.
I think the atmosphere here is exactly what you would expect: unpretentious, and filled with the aroma of freshly brewed milk tea. I found it very ‘local’ and charming.
You must try their famous Egg Tarts. They feature a puff pastry crust with dozens of thin, buttery layers that shatter delightfully with every bite, holding a smooth and egg-rich custard that isn’t overly sweet. So good.
For a more substantial meal, their Satay Beef Instant Noodles provide a comforting and savoury flavour that pairs well with a cup of their Silk-Stocking Milk Tea.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Puff Pastry Egg Tarts, Pineapple Bun with Butter, Satay Beef Instant Noodles, and Silk-Stocking Milk Tea.
Hing Fat Noodle House 興發麵家
G/F, 337 Po On Road, Cheung Sha Wan, Kowloon
Opening Hours: 11:30am – 10pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Hing Fat Noodle House 興發麵家
Crispy Pork Chop with Shanghainese-style Noodles
Hing Fat Noodle House 興發麵家 is a hidden gem that locals in the area cherish for its straightforward comfort food. (You hardly hear about this eatery on social media.)
The interior is very much a typical neighbourhood noodle joint, which is simple, clean, and without any unnecessary frills.
There is no English menu here, but most people come here for the Pork Chop Noodles.
The pork chops arrive golden brown and are sliced thin, yet they manage to stay remarkably crispy and juicy.
I loved how the Shanghai-style noodles are served with a savoury broth and a dash of pickled vegetables that really enhances the overall flavour. You can opt for mixian (rice vermicelli) or egg noodles too.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Crispy Pork Chop Noodles, Pork Neck (Jowl) Noodles, Soup Dumplings, and Fried Chicken Wings.
Extra tip:
Do not confuse this shop with Hon Fat Noodle Shop 漢發麵家, which is another Sham Shui Po favourite.
Hop Yik Tai 合益泰小食
121 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong
Opening Hours: 6:30am – 8pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Hop Yik Tai 合益泰小食
MICHELIN-Recommended Silky Smooth Rice Rolls That Draw Daily Crowds
Hop Yik Tai is perhaps one of the most famous street food stalls in Sham Shui Po, also recommended by the MICHELIN guide.
Located on a busy corner of Kweilin Street, this humble spot specialises in “cheong fun” or steamed rice rolls.
When I arrived, I saw this constant long queue of people waiting for their fix of silky, smooth rolls served on simple plastic plates.
While the shop offers indoor seating, many locals prefer to stand in the alleyway to eat, which I think adds to the authentic street food experience that Sham Shui Po is known for.
Do order the signature Steamed Rice Rolls, which are incredibly fresh and have a distinctively bouncy texture.
What makes them special is the combination of sauces; I loved how the staff skillfully swirl together sweet sauce, hoisin, and a nutty sesame paste before topping it all with a generous sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Steamed Rice Rolls with Mixed Sauce, Curried Fish Balls, Soy-Braised Pig’s Skin, and Radish, Fish Balls & Pig Skin Combo.
Extra tip:
The queue moves very quickly, so I suggest having your cash ready before you reach the front.
Shum Shum Desserts 深深甜品
Shop C, G/F, 46 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong
Opening Hours: 3pm – 11:45pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Shum Shum Desserts 深深甜品
Modern Cantonese Dessert for the Late-Night Crowd
Shum Shum Desserts is a relatively newer addition to the Sham Shui Po food scene compared to the century-old institutions nearby, but it has quickly carved out a reputation for quality.
Recommended by the MICHELIN guide, this dessert spot specialises in “tong sui” or Cantonese sweet soups.
It is a popular late-night haunt for locals who want to end their meal on a sweet note, and I loved the friendly, community-focused vibe of the shop.
I ordered their “Three-Element Tofu Pudding”, which I think is a great deal because you get a vibrant bowl filled with taro and sweet potato balls, black sugar pearls, and purple sweet potato sago. You can also add a scoop of vanilla ice cream to the mix for a creamy contrast.
If you are looking for something lighter, I enjoyed the Stewed Papaya with Peach Gum, which I found to be both nourishing and subtly sweet.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Stone-ground Cashew Nut Soup, Black Sesame Soup with Tangyuan, Three-Element Tofu Pudding, Stewed Milk Pudding, Stewed Papaya with Peach Gum, and Mango Sago with Pomelo.
Tim Ho Wan 添好運
9-11 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong
Opening Hours: 10am – 9:30pm (Mon – Fri), 9am – 9:30pm (Sat – Sun)
Google Maps – Tim Ho Wan 添好運
Iconic Baked Pork Buns and Traditional Dim Sum Bites
Tim Ho Wan is a name that needs little introduction to dim sum lovers, and this specific Sham Shui Po branch was once the cheapest MICHELIN-starred restaurant in the world.
It is a place where you can still see families gathering for a weekend “yum cha” session amidst a sea of curious travellers.
Most people come here for their legendary Baked BBQ Pork Buns, which feature a crumbly, sweet crust that contrasts with the savoury meat filling inside.
I think it is worth noting that they have recently introduced a new version with a black charcoal-style crust and truffle fragrance, which is a sleek and modern twist on the original.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Baked BBQ Pork Buns (including the new black crust version), Pan-Fried Radish Cake, Steamed Egg Cake, and Vermicelli Roll with Pig’s Liver.
Man Kee Cart Noodles 文記車仔麵
121 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong
Opening Hours: 11am – 4pm (Mon – Sun)
Google Maps – Man Kee Cart Noodles 文記車仔麵
Customise Your Comfort Cart Noodle Bowl at this MICHELIN-Recognised Icon
Man Kee Cart Noodles is a legendary name in Sham Shui Po, and has grown from a small stall into several shops on the same street to accommodate its massive following.
It represents the heart of Hong Kong’s “cart noodle” culture, where you have the freedom to build your own bowl from a wide array of toppings and noodle types.
The ordering process can be a bit intimidating for first-timers, so I recommend taking a look at the menu outside or observing others before you reach the counter.
What’s Tasty 好味 (Hou Mei):
Swiss Sauce Chicken Wings, Chuen Hou Beef Brisket, Braised Pig’s Intestines, Honey Glazed BBQ Pork, and Curry Fish Balls.
Extra tip:
Since they have multiple branches on Fuk Wing Street, I suggest checking the other shops if the queue at one is particularly long, as the quality remains consistent across all of them.
Taste Hong Kong 香港好味
The Taste Hong Kong 香港好味 guide organises 250 restaurants across 18 neighbourhood districts to help both visitors and locals.
The districts range from Central & Western, Kowloon City, Sha Tin, Yau Tsim Mong, Wan Chai, and of course Sham Shui Po 深水埗.
Following these expert recommendations allows travellers to find the true taste of Hong Kong in many unexpected locations, which I found to be very helpful.
Visit tastehk.discoverhongkong.com to access the full guide and begin your culinary adventure. Remember to share your food discoveries using the hashtag #TasteHongKong
* This entry is brought to you in partnership with Hong Kong Tourism Board.
