Tonkatsu… wait, from Busan, and not Japan.
That may be the first surprise when you hear about Tonshou, the Korean-born tonkatsu specialist that has crossed over to Singapore.
Queuing at Tonshou is almost a guarantee, especially during dinner.
The space is small with only counter seating, so the line often spills into the foyer even with the online queue system in place.
You will definitely need some patience if you go during peak hours.
The good news is: the restaurant will expand to Suntec City in September.
Counter seating puts you face to face with the chefs, who work with calm precision.
Interestingly, there is a four-stage cooking method.
The pork cutlet is first cooked gently at low temperature, then deep fried at high heat, allowed to rest, and finally finished over charcoal.
I liked the process. It was a lot to watch, almost theatrical.
The menu is concise, with sets that cover both pork loin and tenderloin.
There are the Hire Katsu Set ($28), Kanjyuku Katsu Set ($24), Ebi Katsu Set ($24), Hokkaido Kurobuta Rosu Katsu Set ($32), Hokkaido Kurobuta Special Rosu Katsu Set ($37), and Special Rosu Katsu Set ($31).
Wanting to try a mix of everything and unable to decide between tenderloin, pork loin and shrimp, I went for the Katsu Combo Set ($34), an all-in-one plate.
The set came with unlimited rice, shredded cabbage, a miso soup rich with pork bits, kimchi, a small salad, and a chilled corn soup.
That was a lot.
The rosu cutlet brought a firmer bite and a subtle smokiness from the charcoal finish, while the hire was softer, juicier and a little richer in flavour.
The charcoal finish added a whisper of smoke that made it more interesting.
The ebi was large, crisp and sweet, but closer to the standard stuff.
On a side note, the corn soup surprised me most. Cold and creamy, it reminded me of the kind of amuse bouche you might get in a French bistro.
I was curious about the Katsu Sando Set ($21), which offered a more casual take on Tonshou’s cutlet.
The pork katsu was neatly sandwiched between soft, fluffy bread with a light spread of sauce, creating a clean balance of crisp crust, tender meat and airy crumb.
At the same time, it retained the same precision in frying and presentation. Good stuff.
What also keeps Tonshou engaging is the range of condiments.
There is the house tonkatsu sauce, a glossy sweet-savory blend, but also Maldon salt, lemon kosho, wasabi, mustard and whole-grain mustard.
The technique is meticulous. The pork is consistently tender. The accompaniments are well thought out.
With only counter seating, it can be a little cramped, but that made the experience feel more authentic than it already was.
Tonshou
51 Tras St, Singapore 078990
Opening Hours: 11am – 9:30pm (Mon – Sun)
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