Oh, a Korean tonkatsu restaurant. Not the first though, since there is already Tonshou.
I usually associate tonkatsu with Japan, so Katsu by Kyu at OUE Downtown Gallery does feel slightly unusual.
This restaurant takes the idea further with Jeju pork, dry-ageing, rice-straw charcoal, and freshly milled rice cooked in iron pots.
Despite being located in the CBD, the mood changes completely once you step inside, with dark timber, hanging fabric lamps and counter seats wrapped around the open kitchen.
I sat facing the cooking area, where the staff were frying the cutlets and opening pots of rice. Not a bad seat, though you may also leave smelling slightly like tonkatsu.
The name “Kyu” comes from the character 究, which refers to pursuing something deeply or to its end.
That philosophy seems to explain why the menu does not try to cover too much, focusing mainly on tonkatsu, udon and a short list of add-ons.
For pork, the choices include Central-Cut Premium Loin ($38), Loin ($32) and Tenderloin ($30). There are also less conventional sets such as Kadaif Prawn ($38), Oyster ($19) and Panko-Crusted Short Rib Kimchi Patty ($38).
Katsu by Kyu uses Jeju pork that undergoes 10 days of dry-ageing before being finished over rice-straw charcoal.
Even the crust is slightly different, with freshly milled rice powder mixed into the panko for a lighter, more brittle crunch.
The restaurant also uses Incheon rice, milled in-house each morning and cooked to order in a traditional gamasot iron pot.
I went for the Central-Cut Premium Loin ($38), their most “balanced” cut between lean and fattiness. The platter also came with cabbage, soup, pickles and sauces (like ssamjang and wasabi), along with the individual bowl of rice.
The tonkatsu arrived sliced into thick pieces, showing a pale pink centre (some parts were really pink) beneath an evenly fried panko crust.
The pork was considerably tender and juicy, though it retained a firmer, meatier bite than some diners may expect.
I still liked the contrast against the crisp coating, which stayed light rather than becoming thick and oily.
Instead of ordering full sets, you can add an extra Kadaif Prawn ($12) or Oyster ($6), which was what I did.
The Kadaif Prawn was the more memorable add-on, with a plump prawn wrapped in fine strands of shredded kadaif pastry then deep-fried till crackly and golden. (I did see some other tables getting really huge ones though.)
Similarly, the Oysters ($6 each) came with a crisp golden exterior and a soft, briny centre.
They were pleasant, though beside the premium pork and Kadaif Prawn, they did not leave quite as strong an impression.
I also ordered the Chilled Flat Udon ($15), made with broad buckwheat noodles served cold with three dipping sauces.
Surprisingly, I enjoyed this a lot, as the wide noodles (looking like kway chap!) had a smooth, chewy bite that was unlike the usual.
And the chilled temperature helped reset the palate between bites of fried pork.
The main drawback is the price. A Central-Cut Premium Loin set at $38 is already on the higher side, and once you add the extras (like the $6 curry sauce which I did), the bill climbs rather quickly.
Katsu by Kyu is recognisably tonkatsu, but the Jeju pork, charcoal finishing and gamasot rice make the experience feel different enough from the usual sets.
Katsu by Kyu
OUE Downtown 2 #01-09, 6A Shenton Way, Singapore 068815
Opening Hours: 11am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm (Mon – Sat), Closed Sun
Other Related Entries
Tonshou (Tras Street)
Whuchu Korean Dining Restaurant (UE Square)
JIHO Hanbang Samgyetang SBCD (18 Cross)
Obongzip (The Star Vista)
Song Gye Ok 송계옥 (Telok Ayer)
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