This was my first time properly diving into Persian cuisine in London (or any where else), and it turned out to be an eye-opening experience.
Berenjak takes its cue from the “kebab” (or kabab) houses of Tehran.
And that idea seems to shape everything, from the compact layout to the focus on grilled meats, flatbreads and small sharing plates.
The name refers to a crunchy toasted rice snack (made by his aunt) that chef-founder Kian Samyani remembers from childhood trips to Iran.
Berenjak has a Soho branch with a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand, but I visited the Borough Market outlet, which is set in a historic townhouse.
I managed to sit at the long marble counter and watch the chefs work the mangal grill and the clay tandoor ovens.
The regular a la carte menu is designed for sharing and covers the full breadth of Persian staples.
For starters or ‘Noon o Mazeh’, you can find Taftoon (£5), Sangak (£5), Mast o Musir (£8.50), Hummus (£9), Mirza Ghasemi (£9.50), and Black Truffle Olivieh (£10.50).
There are also slow-cooked stews or ‘Khoresht’ such as Ghaimeh Bademjoon (£21) and Ghalieh Mahi (£28).
I decided to go for the Borough Lunch menu (£35) which offered a broad look at what the kitchen can do.
The Sangak and Taftoon which are whole wheat flatbread, arrived hot and blistered from the oven.
The Sangak was unique because it was baked on a bed of hot pebbles, giving the whole wheat flatbread a bumpy texture especially good for scooping up dips.
I used the bread to finish off the Mirza Ghasemi, which is a coal-cooked aubergine dip with a deep, smoky flavour.
You should probably forget any usual hummus you have ever had.
The version here (£9) was made with black chickpeas and sunflower seed tahini, having a deeper colour and a nuttier, more earthy flavour, finished with walnuts and a dusting of sumac.
The Mast o Musir was tasty as well, a thick strained yoghurt with Persian shallots that helped balance out the heat.
I had both chicken kebabs and found them really good.
The Jujeh Kabab was marinated in saffron and lemon, giving it a bright, delicate flavour, while the Jujeh Kabab Tond used poussin in a spicier chilli and red pepper marinade.
While both looked too charred on the outside, they stayed very juicy inside.
I really enjoyed the experience because it did feel like being invited into a very busy (very stylish) kitchen and home.
The combination of smoke, the historic setting and the flavours of this Persian food will stay with me for a while.
Berenjak Soho
27 Romilly St, London W1D 5AL, United Kingdom
Opening Hours: 5:30pm – 11pm (Mon), 12pm – 3pm, 5:30pm – 11pm (Tue – Fri), 12pm – 11pm (Sat), Closed (Sun)
Google Maps – Berenjak Soho
Berenjak Borough
1 Bedale Street, London SE1 9AL, United Kingdom
Opening Hours: 5:30pm – 10:30pm (Mon), 12pm – 3pm, 5:30pm – 10:30pm (Tue – Fri), 12pm – 10:30pm (Sat), Closed (Sun)
Google Maps – Berenjak Borough
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