Borough Market in London is often the first stop for anyone looking to eat in this part of town, but walking just five minutes (or less) away to Park Street brings you to Kolae.
This restaurant comes from the same team behind the highly successful Som Saa, and it focuses specifically on the coastal cuisine of Southern Thailand.
The name refers to a traditional cooking technique where ingredients are basted in a thick, coconut milk based marinade before being grilled over open flames.
The restaurant is housed in an old coach house spread over three floors, and the smell of the charcoal grill hits you the moment you step inside.
You can sit at the wooden counter to watch the chefs at work, which is where the real action happens.
If you enjoy watching a busy kitchen manage open flames, the ground floor is the best spot.
The menu is divided into smaller and larger plates with a heavy emphasis on the grill.
Smaller options include Coconut Water Pickles and Ferments (£5), Crispy Prawn Heads with red chilli nahm jim (£6), Biryani Rice Crackers (£6), and Kolae Grilled Mussel Skewers (£7).
The signature Kolae Chicken Bamboo Skewer (£8) was definitely the highlight, arriving with a thick, charred coating from the repeated basting in coconut milk.
The meat was tender and had a deep, smoky sweetness that you only get from charcoal. So good.
I also had the Kale and Herb Fritters (£10.50), which were piled high and served with a fermented chilli and cashew nut dressing.
They had a light, airy crunch that worked well with the spicy kick of the sauce.
Larger plates feature the Phuket Style Soy Braised Pork Belly and Ribs (£15), Herbal Pepper Curry of Smoked Chicken (£17), Southern Gati Curry of Stonebass (£18), and specials like Sour Curry of Deep Fried Grey Mullet (£16.50).
I also tried the Herbal Pepper Curry of Smoked Chicken (£17), which was an intense, dry curry with a very strong hit of black pepper and the distinct, slightly bitter taste of sator beans.
Rather than a broad crowd-pleasing version of Thai cooking, I was glad to find a restaurant like this that focuses on the smoky flavours of Southern Thailand.
It feels confident in its identity, and that is what makes this meal memorable.
KOLAE
6 Park Street, London SE1 9AB, United Kingdom
Opening Hours: 12pm – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm (Mon – Wed), 12pm – 3pm, 5pm – 10:30pm (Thurs) 12pm – 10pm (Fri – Sat), 12pm – 9pm (Sun)
Google Maps – KOLAE
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