[Bangkok] One of the best Bangkok restaurant meals I have had in recent times is at Charmgang.
Set in the heart of Talad Noi, near Bangkok’s Chinatown, Charmgang opened with a mission to give Thai curry-and-rice shops a modern edge.
Charmgang quickly picked up a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its balanced, creative curries and tasty sharing plates.
The restaurant is run by three chefs, Geravich “Mew” Mesaengnilverakul, Aruss “Jai” Lerlerstkull, and Atcharapon “Aew” Kiatthanawat, who all trained under David Thompson at Nahm.
Instead of playing it safe, they use their fine-dining background to dig into traditional recipes from across the country.
These dishes are rebuilt with better ingredients, clever techniques, and a bold sense of flavour.
The dining room has a retro Thai look, with red reed mats and neon signs, and an open kitchen where you can see the action.
The menu changes often, and on my visit, the kitchen served up a wide range of regional Thai curries and small plates.
To start, you can go for canapés such as Smoked Duck Wafers with Black Witch Grapes (THB 190) and Betel Leaf Wrapped with Fish of the Day (THB 250).
This can be followed by salads including Crispy Samphire with Crab Salad (THB 530), and Pomelo Salad with Cobia Fish and Cowa Leaves (THB 560).
Reading all the various guidebooks, I was led into ordering the Sugar Cane Smoked Pork Jowl Salad with Southern Sour Mango (THB 480).
Pork jowl, prized for its marbling and tenderness, came smoked with sugar cane, giving it a subtle, sweet-smoky flavour that worked well against the natural fattiness of the cut.
The southern sour mango added tang and crunch, lifting the dish and cutting through the richness of the pork.
The flavours were bold without being overwhelming, and the salad kept the palate awake for whatever would come next. A good start.
While it is an off-menu item, most in the know order the Seared Scallop on Crispy Coconut Milk Cupcake (THB 320).
Skeptical about putting a scallop on a cupcake (not the American style but the Thai ones)?
Turned out, Charmgang did it pretty well. The scallop was gently seared, still soft inside, sitting on top of a khanom krok (a traditional Thai coconut milk cake) which was crisp on the outside and almost custardy inside.
To be honest, the cupcake starter was just okay to me, but the real mind-blowing dish was the Phanaeng Curry of Braised Beef Cheek (THB 590).
Phanaeng curry is famous for its rich, nutty flavour and gentle heat, coming from roasted spices, coconut milk, and ground peanuts.
At Charmgang, they used braised beef cheek, and the long, slow cooking made the beef meltingly tender.
Here, the balance was also spot on, and I swept that creamy, fragrant, multi-layered sauce clean. Very clean.
Thai-style crab omelets are already famous for their golden, crisp edges and rich, eggy centre loaded with sweet crab meat.
Charmgang’s Crab Omelet with Bean Sprout (THB 530) added a pile of fresh bean sprouts, which cut through the richness and added crunch. Another dish that scored for me.
Service moved at a brisk but relaxed pace. The staff worked the floor with confidence. Dishes came out in good order, and the open kitchen buzzed without chaos.
Charmgang offers clever, modern riffs on Thai classics. The prices reflect the creativity and chef experience more than the portions.
I can see why people call it one of Bangkok’s more exciting places for a casual night out.
Charmgang
14 Soi Charoenkrung 35, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong District, Bangkok 10100, Thailand
Opening Hours: 6pm – 9:30pm (Mon – Fri), 12pm – 2pm, 6pm – 9:30pm (Sat – Sun)
Google Maps – Charmgang
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